zelenskyaI'd better stay away from it (bad romance), but I just couldn't resist. I still can't decide whether it's a 7A, 7A/+ or 7A+ 😀 So I fell off the top today just to climb it one more time.
zelenskyaIt’s a great route, but I’m really happy it’s over. There are just too many holds for me — and all of them are naughty, blind moves, different directions, heels, knees, and toes… knees and toes! @georg_hoffi did an amazing job solving this puzzle! I only swapped heels for toes, got a bit over-psyched, stored up some extra power in the office, and sent it twice today (yeah, camera issue). And that “fuck fuel economy” scent was totally improvised — my 6-sessions long beta was more accurate.
zelenskyaF* yeah! A 20+ days journey is over! 🥲 Cave section is straight, but slippery, and the 2nd colonet is bad enough to feel it like medium rare before the crux. I started the crux having my right point finger injured, so I stuck with this left hand beta. But foot work is a key there. Next two holds are good enough, but I fell there a couple of times. The 2nd to top hold felt like a jug afterwards, given that I am tall enough to reach it having my legs somewhere below. Thank you @fabi_pensel for a full spectrum of emotions!
zelenskyaUnexpected send! Is it that my finger injury is gone, or that I've just trained well on BK's 6C routes? 😏 Tried to match on the volume, put a heel there and reach the 1st crimp ❌ or to match, toe hook start hold and pull myself to the wall ❌
bcdkeythat’s the only beta that works for me, I never managed to bump from one crimp to another with the heel and left hand on the sloper
zelenskyaNice one! Stuck a bit with the move to the pre-top volume - tried to do it from the heel first, but the toe works much better.
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