johnbeene 168cm-3cm~6C+ johnbeene's beta for m.claudbatiste's blue jugs💪 6B/BLAU • BETA7 boulders, sends and beta videos„@sunnyssun91 Here is what I meant - I think for smaller climbers or those that can't lock off the start hold, try using momentum and deadpoint at the crimp. I smear with the right foot with an open hip to generate a bit more force. It's still a hard move, but at least it's not entirely dependent on lockoff strength. The rest of the problem is a nice exercise in open/closed hip positioning.“ • 26 likes, 2 comments • See BETA7 for more...launch 340 viewsjohnbeene @sunnyssun91 Here is what I meant - I think for smaller climbers or those that can't lock off the start hold, try using momentum and deadpoint at the crimp. I smear with the right foot with an open hip to generate a bit more force. It's still a hard move, but at least it's not entirely dependent on lockoff strength. The rest of the problem is a nice exercise in open/closed hip positioning.singapursling sunnyssun91
johnbeene 168cm-3cm~6C+ 340 viewssingapursling sunnyssun91
