• rob.buse184cm+2cm~7A+
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    rob.buse💥💣 BAAAAAMMMMM 💣💥
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    >> Attention long post! Just enjoy the funny video and/or take a moment to read something I
    wrote about #routesetting and #jumps <<
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    Topic: coordination demanding JUMPS FOR EVERYONE(?)
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    Last time I set in a completely unusual way without trying to force a move %. Main reason
    for that was to keep a specific dynamic move 'relatively easy' and to make it accessible, thus
    possible especially for smaller climbers . In addition it is a good thing for #routesetters to
    introduce more and more people to dynamic moves in modern bouldering. Speaking of body
    size, gender, age, climbing skills, fitness level etc. I believe that many kinds of people should
    try to move and try out those dynamic moves. Nothing special so far, because setters normally
    put up all kinds of hard and easy moves for all users of a gym. But what about coordination
    demanding jumps?
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    As you know some moves like jumping from one hold to another are pretty depending on arm
    length and body size. But why is that so? Route setters decide to include/exclude certain
    groups of people and their physical size to force those highly dynamic moves for certain other
    groups. While I set a jump, I exclude the way of skipping it by pure arm span or body size and
    thus force climbers to go for the intended solution - the jump. In doing so route setters
    unintentionally have a specific body type/size in mind (most likely their own) for which the
    jump is possible. Either route setters force the jump and thus exclude smaller climbers, or they
    include smaller climbers like children and lose the 'forced jump' to taller climbers. Really, is it
    that way? It's not that black'n'white, because route setters nowadays think about the intended
    user and this can be all kinds of climbers. They intend a move for the user's demands
    depending on many different factors like grade, size and style. And if the user is in the gym to
    celebrate his or her 8th birthday, route setters know how to set something rewarding for a
    kid’s birthday party (trust me they hate putting up ladders).
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    But still, what about jumps? Should route setters put up jumps for small climbers and accept
    that a taller climber easily skips everything? I think yes, they should and they already doing it!
    That's the reason why we have awesome kids’ competitions. Those boulder problems are hard
    jumps and demanding coordination dynos set with the best intentions to be fun and
    challenging for 12-year old’s. Same goes for small adult climbers, but for taller climbers often
    either a walk in the park or ugly squeezing into tiny boxes. That's why they're intended to be
    climbed by children. Unfortunately, not every gym offers their adult users kids comp boulder
    problems in a normal commercial setting. Normal weekly route setting often means setting for
    a less or more average body size, age, climbing level and style.
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    So, coordination demanding jumps for small climbers and beginners are not quite the
    'standard', right? Yes, on the one hand most of the gyms have more than 100 boulder
    problems. They could afford a wide diversity of styles and moves accessible for everyone. On
    the other hand, many route setters are not willing to set those 'cheatable' boulder problems.

    Boulder problems based around a dynamic move tend to either work or not unlike some well-
    set sequence boulder problems in which many different solutions work within the same grade

    range. Nevertheless, the modern route setter’s holy grail is to achieve forced moves for
    everyone. Practically that is impossible, because people come in different sizes and skill
    levels such as moves can only be created within a certain group of people.
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    Next, I'd like to show you a PRATICAL EXAMPLE of how to set a coordination demanding
    jump for the intended user: small(er) and medium tall climbers/intermediate skill level. The
    video shows the pink boulder problem from yesterday’s setting session
    @bertablockboulderhalle together with @candyclimbing and @fabi_pensel.
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    In preparation my main questions were 'what is the essence of a paddle dyno (#cma_paddle)?'
    and 'how to set it in the easiest way possible to make it a good challenge for almost everyone?'

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    1. A paddle dyno is a jump from the start hold to a certain target hold. Your whole body is not
    attached to the climbing wall at some point (otherwise it's not a jump). You can call this
    moment or flight - airtime.
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    2. You jump into an intermediate hold and reach it most likely with both hands at the same
    time or in a fast combination (1st ✋/2nd ✋follows).
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    3. At this time your feet have no connection to the wall and just your hands will be able to
    grab the intermediate hold for a second. Your whole body is swinging so heavily (centrifugal
    forces) and you feel that you lose grip when you reach the intermediate hold.
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    4. To continue the airtime, you will pull explosively on the intermediate hold and launch
    yourself again to make it to the target hold (feet are still in the air).
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    5. The target hold is most likely a good hold on which you can stop the swing.
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    The essence of a paddle dyno is therefore the ability of coordination, jumping, explosive
    power, speed and commitment. THAT IS A LOT!!!
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    NOW - 'How to make it easier, but still exciting with coordination?'
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    The fun part of a paddle dyno is the coordination of your hands from the start holds over the
    intermediate to the target. The hard part is that you must hold your own body weight + swing
    (centrifugal forces) during the whole jumping phase ⚖
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    Doing the fun part while still on a relatively good food hold/volume could be a good solution!
    ☝
    No jump ❌ to the intermediate hold and during the coordination part ✔
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    This doesn't make the initial move less explosive or less fast, but without cutting the feet it is
    much easier and the climber has just to focus on his hands. Rocking-over the foot hold to the
    intermediate is still one fluent move. The initial jump was left out in favor off more
    controllability towards the intermediate hold. Sounds like a fair compromise, right?
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    You keep the climber on his foot holds until he reaches the intermediate hold and here comes
    the trick. You set the whole thing around an edge so that the climber will move in the wrong
    direction if he doesn't pull on the intermediate hold and thus pull his self around the edge
    towards the target. Basically, this makes it possible to not skip the intermediate hold by just
    jumping all the way along the wall from the start position to the target hold. Small detail here,
    if you put up a big intermediate hold the climber can't avoid it. It blocks the way around the
    edge and there is no other way around it, but to use it.
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    The intermediate allows the climbers to pull his body around the edge into another direction.
    From there he must launch again to the target hold. At this point it could be exciting to force
    him to lose his feet and jump or fall into the target hold. This depends how far away the target
    hold is set. Anyway, the change of direction is essential here. Perfect wall shape would be a
    140° edge and 90° to make it a blind jump (you can't see the intermediate and/or target hold
    around the edge).
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    The distance between holds are a crucial factor especially if you want to set jumps for smaller
    climbers. Taller people will always make use of their arm span and try to skip something. Let
    them! My intended user can't use their arm span, because they are smaller than the taller
    climber. That's the reason why you can cheat the start with a huge throw of the right hand to
    the intermediate - no challenge for tall guys. I think that is totally legit in a commercial route
    setting context. FUN is the topmost maxim.
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    That's not the case for bouldering competitions where route setters are responsible to make an
    athlete's effort evaluable. But this is another major topic. If you want to know more about
    route setting for a comp, than I highly recommend @tobidiedler's posts from the 18th of
    December 2018.
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    Know it is your turn! What do you think route setters and climbers? Is it always necessary to
    force those moves to 100%? Do you like boulder problems that force you to do a certain move
    or is it still fun if you can skip something? Are there boulder problems or specific moves
    which are 'morpho'? ('morpho' is a climb or move whose difficulty is highly dependent on the
    body shape or size of the climber).
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    This is an ongoing discussion. Please feel free to come back and leave a comment later! If you
    haven't had enough you should definitely check out @fabi_pensel's 8 Setting Tips Every
    Climber Should Know     posted by @chalked.climber on the 8th of January 2019. Another
    highly recommendable article called Routesetting: History and Philosophie written by
    Mathieu Elie on the 15th November 2016 is available at blocshop.com
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    Cheers Robert
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    P.S. I would like to mention @fabi_pensel and @candyclimbing for constantly pushing the
    quality of our job and work process! Thanks @fabi_pensel for filming. Thanks
    @bertablockboulderhalle for inviting me. Big thanks to all my friends for their honest
    feedback.

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