rob.buse
Robert
freelance #routesetter from Berlin, Germany
Home location: bertablock
Height: 184cm
Ape index: 2cm
Robert (@rob.buse) • BETA7 boulders, sends and beta videos„freelance #routesetter from Berlin, Germany“ • 177 followers, 27 following, 2 sends, 76 boulders, 18 posts • See BETA7 for sends, boulders and videos from Robert (@rob.buse)
fabi_pensel 📸 /rob.buse 🌟184cm+2cm bertablock 4. Halle rechtsfabi_pensel - orange slopers🤹 7A/ORANGE
launch 116 viewsfabi_pensel fun times @bertablockboulderhalle with my buddy @rob.buse 🕺
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getting back into the run & jump business after the lockdown and all the hangboarding at home was a bit tough, but with a little practice our bodies will remember or even learn something new 😁
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give it a go in the 4th gym part at #bertablockboulderhalle and have fun ✌rob.buse 184cm+2cm launch 157 viewsrob.buse ⛰️ JUMBO LOVE ⛰️
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This video draft is an experiment to capture a longer climb in @bertablockboulderhalle's sector called "Jumbo Love" ❤️ I called this 15 meter long route 'Le Tour de France" and it has way too many moves for a bouldering gym, that's for sure 😅
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There are to starts. The shorter version is marked with blue 💙 and longer with purple 💜 tags. Don't ask me about the grade. I think the main difficulty is endurance power and therefore it's an enjoyable training tool 💪😎
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Thanks for the great session @candyclimbing and @fabi_pensel, because #teamworkmakesthedreamwork 😉
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Let me know if you can finish this climb 3 times in a row 😅 That would be a great challenge and an endurance power testpiece 👊☺️
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Don't forget to check out @beta7.app to log your ascend 👍
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Cheers Rob 🤸
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[#dopemusic by @bsd.u ❤️]petitetortue974 Nice! Love the longer endurance problems, esp. easier ones (green, yellow) as my technique gets very sloppy after 10 moves or so xD Will try for sure next time
rob.buse 184cm+2cm launch 227 viewsrob.buse ↗️🙌⬆️ #DYNODAY ↗️🙌⬆️
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Sometimes I feel that the most controversial thing you can set are boulder problems like this light blue #dyno from yesterday's reset @bertablockboulderhalle 🤔😅
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On the one hand, it's possible to cheat them and cut short, if you are familiar with dynamic moves or if you are a relatively tall climber. On the other hand, it's the perfect opportunity for beginners, children and relatively small climbers to learn and practice their coordination abilities [10%🦕🆚10%🐜]
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During pre-run phase other routesetters or ambitious climbers might think "What, that's it?", because it feels so damn easy. However after opening the new set for everyone in the evening, you can witness amazing moments on "easy" dynos like this: People in rental shoes performing their first double-dyno or jump straight to the oval pinch without the intermediate hold. Relatively small climbers start to think: "Oh wow, I can do this. I'm almost there!". People get incredibly psyched and feel strong going for the big jug. Some climbers even define their own coordination move and stick the dyno one-handed with a right foot kick. By watching people do all this amazing stuff one thing becomes very clear: #routesetting can be a tool of giving opportunities for moments of joy and happiness 🤩👍
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Still there's no escaping from the existing #routesetting paradigm of forcing moves for everyone ☝️🤓 Even if that one here is a refreshing exception 💁 *
Anyway I wish that this dyno will get the most repeated of all the orange taped boulder problems at #bertablockboulderhalle 🧡👌😉
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[EDIT: I forgot to mention that orange tape at #bertablockboulderhalle indicates a boulder problem with a certain dynamic move or jump. Therefore some climbers hesitate to even just try the problem, because those orange tapes are known to be very demanding in terms of explosion power, coordinate abilities and strong jumping. Anyway not this time 😉]
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Thanks for having me @bertablockboulderhalle and thanks for the awesome #teamwork together with
@fabi_pensel
@candyclimbing
@be_griffe
@elenaflw
& Lennart 🤗
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Hope to see you crushing this one @jurosch @teambertablock 👊😁
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Cheers Rob 🤸rob.buse 184cm+2cm launch 175 viewsrob.buse 🔩✨ Keep Calm & Kick This ✨🔩
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Yesterday I had a great setting session with @candyclimbing @fabi_pensel @be_griffe @elenaflw Leo & Richi @bertablockboulderhalle 😎👍 Thanks for having me guys 🙇
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This yellow boulder problem allows you to practice a relatively easy kick or step-through move 🕺😅
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Have a wonderful start into your week 🤸
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Cheers Robert
jan.woltering 📸 /rob.buse 🌟184cm+2cm launch 169 viewsjan.woltering due to various #betaconfusions🤙💚rob.buse 📸 /fabi_pensel 🌟176cm+5cm~7B launch 241 viewsrob.buse 🧡 Smooth & technical arete 🧡
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Thanks @fabi_pensel for climbing this boulder problem so damn smoothly and thanks to the whole routesetting team @candyclimbing @elenaflw @robin_gray_117 & @annadularidze for the great setting session yesterday @bertablockboulderhalle 💪😎
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It felt good to work on an idea, that I have had in mind for a long time. The basic idea, which I tried to incorporate into this boulder is the shoulder move to the right to bumb up the left hand on the arete. I got inspired on my last trip by an boulder problem called 'Eymerich' 6C+ in the beautiful valley of Daone, Italy [swipe left for the photo]. What came out at the end of the setting session is definitely not a replica, but the initial idea got me started to set what later became this technical boulder problem🧗⛰️➡️🤔💡➡️🔩🧡
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Anyway I guess this way of setting is a bit old-fashioned. With this idea in mind it took me relatively long time to set this boulder. No fancy looking stacked volumes or other beautiful aesthetic features and sit starts are not everyone's favorite.
But I know that some of you guys will appreciate this style a lot. That's why I'm very happy about your positive feedback from yesterday 🙇
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I'm looking forward to set again @bertablockboulderhalle on the 25th of November.
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Cheers Robert
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[Music by @bsd.u | Photo by @annihabub❤️]rob.buse 184cm+2cm launch 210 viewsrob.buse strength technic boulder 💪🔬 with green crimps 6C/V5/LILA from me at @bertablock (Worldcup)
launch 165 viewsrob.buse ▫️➕ Drop-Knee Action ➕▫️
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with @jostlehmann 💛 Thanks Jost for the great #teamwork on this yellow boulder problem and for climbing this line several times during the prerunning phase 💪😎
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The plan was to set an crimpy and intensive boulder problem in the 6C/V4-ish grade range for 10 to 15-year old children. I guess in the end it turned out to be a bit more technical rather than intensive 🤪😅
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Anyway the job was done and I hope everyone of the competitors liked the result ✅
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Now I'm on my way to 🇫🇷😘
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Cheers Robert
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@candyclimbing
@bertablockboulderhalle
#teamworkmakesthedreamwork 😂launch 96 viewsrob.buse 👶🏆 Berta Block Kids Cup 2019 🏆👶
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This light blue slab boulder is the first version of a problem I set for Berta Block's Kids Cup 2019 last Friday. Thanks @jostlehmann for his help and concentrated effort during the testing phase. We changed a lot in this boulder problem to make all the spaces between hand- and footholds smaller. Therefore we made this climb much more enjoyable even for the youngest (and tiniest) competitors without changing any moves of the original version 😉👍
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Thanks @bertablockboulderhalle for hosting this comp and @candyclimbing for his awesome head setter job 🤩
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3️⃣0️⃣ fresh and new comp boulder problems are waiting for you to be solved in the 4th hall @bertablockboulderhalle 🤯
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Hope to be back soon again with some more #routesetting. But first I'll be back in one of the greatest places for outdoor bouldering in Europe: the forest of Fontainebleau 🌲❤️🌳
#respectbleau #leavenotraces #campsiterule
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My personal goal for this trip: self-reconciliation aka 'be kind to yourself Rob' 💁💭❤️
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Cheers Robert
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Music by @bsd.urob.buse 📸 / mau.357🌟launch 140 viewsrob.buse 🌈 Sector World-Cup Reset 🌟
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Here are 3️⃣ cool boulder problems from today's reset of sector 'Worldcup' @bertablockboulderhalle 😃
Now online @beta7.app ✔️
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#No. - Hold colour - Grade - Name - Info:
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1.) 💙 - BLUE - Sheffield's Mantle - I guess the beta isn't obvious 🤔 I hope it's not, because solving this little puzzle and mantling on top of the volume is such a rewarding moment 😆 Is the direct short cut out of reach for the intended audience? Definitely YES 👌😏
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2.) 🧡 - GREEN - Squeezing int(r)o - 💯% 'sequence boulder problem' and a bit flexibility is needed to squeeze into this #flathold monster in 🍊 Is the sit start a bit old school? Definitely YES 👌😏
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3.) 💚 - BLUE - Danser autour [de l'arête] (french for 'dancing around the corner') - nicely climbed by the best #mariokart driver on planet earth @mau.357 💪😎 Thx @mau.357 for testing and tweaking this beautiful movement. I think it is my #bestboulder from today's reset 🌟 Is it a bit strange and wobbly to dance around the arete, but always fun to climb? Definitely YES 👌😏
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Today's #routesettering session was really good, because we took our time to test and tweak a lot of small details 🔸🔻🔹🔺
This intensive #forerunning phase reminded me a bit of the good old days were @fabi_pensel @candyclimbing and I spend HOURS of doing the same move - tweaking the shit out of every nanometer-detail and movement 🔜🧟🔚
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THAT'S NOT A GOOD THING to do if you want to keep a healthy body 😱 Nowadays everyone learned how to be super fast and more efficient - no need for a million hours of work and destroying ourselves⏳☠️
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At the end it is always a balance between quantity and quality 💩 vs. 🌟 And sometimes all the tweaking can overcook the whole set ❗ @bertablockboulderhalle they have a really good balance ✔️ thanks to their #routesettingteam 🤟
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Thanks for having me @bertablockboulderhalle and thanks for the great #teamwork @fabi_pensel @candyclimbing 👍
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Hope to see you soon again with new ideas and power from AUSTRALIA 🤯🇦🇺🌏 Stay tuned for more ❗✔️
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Cheers Rob