zelenskyaSlightly different beta for this amazing route. I especially liked this left to right flight, I wish I could wear a mantle for it 😀 Surprisingly, I struggled on the two pretop holds
georg_hoffi@zelenskya , thats funny, I also tried yesterday to skip the bad volume and directly go for the upper one. However, I am still missing a little bit of left Bizeps power to feel comfortable to do the move 😉
zelenskyaIt felt easier the other day. Also tried heel hook beta (⬆️ after the first crimp), but couldn't manage the momentum.
georg_hoffiImpressive Fingerstrength @zelenskya For me this way is impossible. I only managed it usung the heelhook. Regarding the momentum, I release the hook when my right foot is already on the good foothold.
zelenskyaEpic! Sent it a while ago, 4 sessions, ~20 attempts, and a day flash. Awesome route, full of sloppers which I don't like, so I decided to repeat it. To make it real! And make a video, cause I have my own beta. Two more sessions, figured out another beta... Day flash today, but the cam was off! Two more attempts, but I fall off the top. Had my time on some other projects and gave it one more try. Dobby is a free elf now! 🤩
zelenskyaI have mastered my contact strength and finger strength for two crux moves :) I was going to make it look even more easier, but injured my back warming up in Beach sector (there is yellow holds LILA with an interesting start)
zelenskyaSo hard! Whichever beta I tried (⬅️or ⬆️), I stuck at the same place! So smart, @rob.buse 🥲 This momentum thing was a crux for me. And yes, almost slipped off the top.
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